Budget Accommodation and Travel - Lists for several African and European Countries, with lots of Zimbabwe info

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Last updated 2006/12

Europe Listings
Take bus from Heathrow to anywhere in London for GBP 3-50 (USD 7)
East Africa Listings
Local Bus from Entebbe Airport to Kampala Uganda
Local Bus from Nairobi Airport to Nairobi Kenya
Bus Trip Kigali Rwanda to Harare Zimbabwe
Boat and Bus from Kigali to Harare through Lake Tanganyika
South Africa Listings
Mozambique Listings
Zimbabwe Listings

Budget Accommodation, Restaurants and Travel - Lists for several African and European Countries, with lots of Zimbabwe info

Europe

Belgium - Brussels - Colombier Hotel, rue Colombier, south west of City 2 Shopping centre and church, Brussels city centre. Lots of atmosphere. About Euro 37/night single. Between Waterstones English bookshop and Metropole Hotel, in parallel side street (rue Colombier) in the direction of the shopping precinct. 200 metres from Grand Place. tel/fax +32 2 223 25 58. Now under new management. colombier@hotelseurop.com - www.hotelseurop.eu

Belgium - Brussels - Nuits St Georges Restaurant - 52 Rue Gretry, 1000 Bruxelles - tel +32 2 218 01 03 - open 7 days per week. A great budget restaurant - their mussels and chips for Euro 10 complete with a free beer or wine is unbeatable for price and also really tasty - and this is in an area next to Grand Place central Brussels which is full of rip-off restaurants who overcharge mercilessly. Also good service and friendly people.

Belgium - Brussels - Place Flagy (pronounced Plass Flajee) - near Pont Namur metro station - take a 71 bus from Brouckeres central brussels or from Pont Namur near the metro station - a great Portuguese resto with great fish dishes. Middle price range but superb cuisine. On the side of the square opposite where most of the shops are.

Belgium - Brussels - Galaxy Hotel, next to Sheraton Hotel, north of City 2 Shopping centre and near Gare du Nord. TV in rooms. About Euro 37/night single.

Denmark - Copenhagen - Bjornen Hotel, between rail station and police HQ - out of station side/rear entrance, near Saga Hotel and Red Light district. Next to Eurolines office. about DKR 350-00 per night single. Also Jorgensen Hotel, next to Norreport Station 15 minutes walk from town centre

France - Paris - Hotel du Milan, Rue St Quentin (or St Denis?), 3 minutes walk due south from Gare du Nord (Eurostar station - main trains to London) - +33 140 37 88 50, fax +33 46 07 89 48. About Euro 32/night single. Blue Background sign with white lettering - highly visible about halfway down the hill from the station on the right-hand side of the street. Excellent service, good atmosphere. Great Chinese/Vietnamese low-cost high quality restaurant nearby - go out of Hotel Milan side entrance, along street north-west past Spanish and Turkish restaurant, across street past bakery on corner, turn right up hill towards gare du nord again, cross street immediately - Chinese/Vietnamese restaurant is in front of you. Typically Euro 5 for a single course meal (USD 6, GBP 3-50). Dont bother with special menus - their stuff is very well and low priced even on an a-la-carte basis. This street is the one downhill from the Macdonalds at the south-west corner of gare du nord - go downhill from Macdonalds on the right-hand side, halfway to the road intersections. The food is in trays at the counter and they microwave. They do sit-ins and carry-outs (takeaways). They are busy but not too busy. The Leader Price supermarket nearby just downhill at the main intersection is good for snacks and drinks when staying at Hotel Milan. For good cybercafe - exit Hotel Milan on Rue St Quentin , cross road, go up side road to end, turn left uphill 1-2 blocks. Phone Shop run by Sri Lankans/Tamils has good cybercafe - maybe 3 PCs - total 3 minutes walk from Hotel Milan. Small shop - dont miss it - just downhill from public phone box.

France - Paris - Hotel Magenta, boulevard Magenta, 6 minutes walk due west from Gare du Nord (Eurostar station - main trains to London) - About Euro 26/night for double/triple room. This has to be the best deal in town. I am reliably informed this place is clean.

Germany - Frankfurt - King George Hotel, corner Moselle and Taunus Strasse, 3 minutes walk from Main Railway Station (Haupt Bahnhof) due east towards town centre. tel +49 69 24 27 11 77 , +49 69 234 942. About Euro 30 / night single

Germany - Munich - Hotel Euro Youth, 5 Senefelder str, 1 minute walk from main railway station due south. About Euro 30 / night single . They have email and maybe webpage. +49 89 599 088 11

UK - London - next to Picadilly - central london - Yee Tung Chinese Resto - 20 Gerrard Street, W1V 7LA (use google maps to find that postcode) - 17 course buffet eat as much as you want - for GBP 4-90. And you can get a glass of tapwater for free. They also have more expensive menus in the eat as much as you like system.. tel +44 207 437 28 70.

Romania - Brasov - Avos (?) sports hotel - US$ 10-20 per night - an almost unknown medium sized clean hotel somewhere behind the real sports hotel - which costs around US$ 100-00 per night

Sweden - Stockholm - Formula 1 Hotel - SKR 350-00 per night - take metro going south from central station to TelefonPlan station and walk 7 minutes direction east towards motorway - Formula 1 hotel is on your right opposite Macdonalds 24 hour. There is a great Thai imbiss/takeaway kiosk 100 metres away where up to 4 people can also eat in. Great food and very affordable. Find and e-book formula 1 on the internet at www.accord.com

UK - Liverpool - Hotel Embassie +44 151 707 1089, 1 Faulkner Square Liverpool 8. Very inexpensive

UK - London - Millenium Hostel - Kentish Town underground station - on Bakerloo line north west of city centre and mabye 1 hour by underground from Heathrow. About GBP 10 (US$ 18) per night in dormitory. There are free (I think) courtesy minibuses from Victoria Coach Station. A similar operation is Eurotower; which also has a courtesy bus. Both offer also weekly rates. Otherwise UK and London are shockingly expensive for Hotels, which are in the region GBP 50 - 80 per night even for the cheapest. But you can get Bed and Breakfast for in the region of GBP 20+ per night single (but not in or near London at that price)- check www.google.com to find these.

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Take bus from Heathrow to anywhere in London for GBP 3-50 (USD 4)

Now updated with 2006/12 prices.... London has an all-day unlimited travel one-day bus pass which extends as far as Heathrow - not a lot of people know that (apologies to Michael Caine the actor). It takes maybe 3-4 hours to City Center so it is not for everyone; but the bus pass works also on the night buses through till 0400 hrs the next morning. 285 from Terminal 3 and/or from Heathrow Central bus station to Kingston (the terminus), 85 Kingston to Putney Bridge Station (the terminus), 414 to Hyde Park Corner and/or Marble Arch. Change at/just 10 metres before Hyde Park Corner for Victoria and/or Victoria Coach Station OR for buses to Picadilly, Oxford Street etc.. At heathrow you have to buy the special one-day bus pass at the Underground (metro - underground railway) ticket office - you cannot (I think) buy it on the bus. From Terminal 4 you have to take a H7 or similar bus from the extreme left bus stop as you exit Arrivals, which will connect you to the 285 at Heathrow Central or at Hatton Cross bus station. I think there is also a special weekly version of this bus pass which costs GBP 13-50 for 7 days... You dont have to be any kind of UK Citizen or Resident to buy these bus passes... If you are heading for Earls Court or similar West London then change at Putney Bridge for bus to Hammersmith, which has buses going almost everwhere in West and North West London. Normal cost Heathrow to city center by underground or National Express Coach is about GBP 6 - 8 I think as of 2004 prices. Underground takes about 1 hour. If you do bus it as above and you are filling up with supplies on your arrival or departure then get off the 285 at Feltham station and walk 1 minute to the Lidl low-cost supermarket next door; then get back on the next bus when finished (but be careful to get the 285 going to Kingston - the 285 direction Heathrow stops very very nearby). Lidl is a great place for lots of things, including a great expresso arabica ground coffee on par with Lavazza for a very low price. Note that on the reverse journey London to Heathrow, when arriving on the 85 at Kingston, you get off at the terminus then again take the 85 across town to the second bus station from where the 285 goes; there is no such complication on the Heathrow to London direction trip. If you have any kind of heavy or awkward luggage then you will almost certainly find the bus trip as above much much easier than using the Underground. Note that the X26 bus from Heathrow also stops at Kingston and is much faster - about 37 minutes vs. 50+ minutes for the 285. That X26 bus also takes you to Croydon which is very close to Gatwick, and therefore could be used as a cheap alternative to the National Express Heathrow-Gatwick Shuttle (but you will need to take some other bus or train from Croydon to Gatwick).

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East Africa

Kenya - Nairobi - Embassy Hotel, next to City Market, very near city centre. Approx US$ 18/night double

Rwanda - Kigali - Agasaro Motel, next to Alpha Plaza Hotel, Remeira, on main road airport to town centre. US$ 18/night double. +250 832 93 reception, +250 085 00182, +250 084 23 093 mobiles. Have webpage and email. agasaromotel@yahoo.fr

Rwanda - Kigali - Umubano / Novotel, US$ 100/night. Intercontinental Hotel. Milles Collines Hotel. Have webpage and email.

Rwanda - Kigali - Rose GuestHouse +250 084 762 47

Rwanda - Kigali - Total Travel Inn +250 86 735

Rwanda - Kigali - Hotel Baobab - fax +250 571 048

Rwanda - Kigali - Kenya Airways - +250 577 972

Rwanda - Kigali - Bon Sejour Hotel, US$ 20/night double, near chez Lando restaurant and Stadium

Rwanda - Kigali - Alpha Plaza Hotel, Remeira, on main road airport to town centre. US$ 45/night double.

Rwanda - Ruwengeri - Gorillas Nest Hotel - US$ 50-00 per night approx. +250 083 05708, gorillanest@yahoo.fr

Rwanda - Kibuye - Guest House by Lake Kivu - also St Michael's or St Paul's church guest house - open to all - near the 'bus station' - Kibuye is a great tourist destination which is almost unknown and certainly unspoiled. Normal Comercial minibus ride from Kigali is 2 hours, US$ 3-5, from Okapi bus stand opposite Amy's Fast Food, Central Roundabout, Kigali. tel +250 083 23 555 and +250 086 539 35

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Local Bus from Nairobi Airport to Nairobi

Costs about Kenyan Shillings 100 (USD 1-30) per person - it is a full sized regular service bus, so should be no surcharge for luggage. Get it from a bus stop near departures. This is what most airport workers take; expect avoidance of taxi promoters to tell you where the bus goes from and/or that it exists.... Trip takes maybe 40 minutes, more in rush hour. If possible avoid going to the terminus since that is a rough rough part of town - instead get off in Kenyatta Avenue where all the nice shops are maybe near or before the 680 hotel. If you get off at the terminus by mistake then watch your luggage very carefully and maybe take a taxi for safety. At the same time you are within easy walking distance of Embassy Hotel, City Market, Hilton Hotel, New Stanley Hotel, Akamba Bus Service, Scandanavian Bus Service, Regional Coach Service etc..

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Local Bus from Entebbe Airport to Kampala

Get from Entebbe airport to Kampala city center for USD 2 - at airport take a shared taxi (normal saloon with blue stripe or marking on side) for USD 0-55 (UgSh 1000 at 2004 forex rate) to Chitoro - get the driver to drop you where the 16 seater minibuses are - then pay for 2 seats to Kampala city center at Uganda Shillings 1000 per seat - one seat will be for your luggage. Go all the way to the taxi-and-bus station, walk north about 3 minutes and find a guest house or cheap hotel on the corner of Luwuma Street - about USD 5 per night single or 8 per night double. That one was Parkside Inn - a bit basic but not too dirty. Eat another 5 minutes north at Anita restaurant near Gateway Bus Service near a Total or Caltex Gas Station/Petrol Station. Meal USD 0-55, soft drinks 0-30 each. If going to Nairobi or Kigali (or Bujumbura) then use Regional Coach Service - 8 minutes walk east along Luwuma Street from the guest house mentioned above. They leave about 1000 hrs every morning for Kigali, probably 1500 hrs for Nairobi (not sure about that timing). Jaguar Coach Service are an alternative to Regional - probably cheaper and more coaches, but Regional seems pretty good and cheap to me. USD 10 for Kampala to Kigali (7 hours), and USD 22 for Kigali to Nairobi (23 hours, with 1 hour stop in Kampala). Jaguar are located I think 3 minutes west of the guest house mentioned above. Take a cheap compass or use the sun - I found that no-one knew where these bus stations were.... PS - Gaso also run buses to Kigali from Kampala I think..

In 2004/09 I revisited and Parkside Inn were full, so I tried Amber Hotel nearby - full but seemed good, then Hotel 888 next to New Taxi Station - Chinese-run - cleaner, about USD 9 per night single with TV, external toilet and wash basins... chpalace@afsat.com, mobile phone +256 71 728 888, tel/fax +256 41 250 888. For eating in Kampala, Antonios seemed good - on Kampala Road - about USD 1-50 for a main course. For nightlife Rock Garden bar at Speke Hotel looked lively. For more expensive food the Kybher Pass Indian Restaurant at Speke Hotel was great. Nearby Terrace bar/restaurant at Grand Imperial Hotel a good and popular place to hang out - drinks USD 1-50 each, live music. Grand Imperial and Speke Hotels about USD 100 per night, Fairview Hotel maybe USD 70, Golf Club Appartments maybe USD 50 per night. Tel +256 41 348 290/91/92 for Grand Imperial.

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Bus Trip Kigali to Harare

Bus and Rail Travel through east and southern Africa

2004/03 I did 5500 km from Kigali to Harare on 3 buses over 5 days. Total bus cost US$ 115-00, but visas (being a UK passport holder) cost me additional US$ 125-00. Air travel would have cost me US$ 400 Air Kenya via Naorobi....

Kigali -> Nairobi - 22 hours, 2000 km, depart Kigali Nyamugogo bus station Regional Coach Services (office near city market Kigali centre - also at Nyamugogo), US$ 21-00, 2000 km, 1 hour stop in Kampala. Overnight section Kampala->Nairobi a bit bumpy due to bad roads and we were luggage checked outside the bus by Kenyan police at 0300 hours somewhere west of Nairobi....Can alternatively travel by Jaguar bus on this route, which is a bit cheaper even. 0600 hrs depart Kigali, 1500 hrs arrive Kampala, 0500 hours arrive Nairobi.

Nairobi->Dar es Salaam - 14 hours, 1000 km - Akamba bus service (next street from Regional Coach Service office in central nairobi). US$ 25-00 (Ksh 1700-00). 14 hours trip, 1000 km. alternatively Scandanavian bus, US$ 40-00 (Ksh 3000-00) which is faster, but comfort level Akamba was good. depart 0630 hrs, arrive Dar Ubungo Bus terminus 2030 hrs approx.. can sleep/doze overnight at Ubungo which is warm, has all night shops, showers, but no bed facilities. reasonably safe if there is a party of you and you can take turns to guard luggage. almost cetainly not worth taking hotel, since between taxi fare and hotel charge you will get overcharged.

Dar -> Lusaka/Harare - 2.5 days (yes!), 2500 km - Tawfiq bus service (Manchester United Bus) - US$ 55-70 (rate flexible since sold through agents). they may try to charge you for packing your luggage into the hold. depart 0530 hrs Ubungo Bus Station Dar es Salaam, arrive Tanzania/Uganda border 1900 hrs, customs process lasts whole next day you depart border 1800 hrs day 2 of trip. Good hotel Africana in border town (Tunduma?) - US$ 6/night double room - do not recommend sleeping in bus - mosquitos plus uncomfortable. arrive Lusaka 0800 hrs day 3, harare 2000 hrs day 3. bus can be very overpacked on trip Dar->Lusaka - typically aisles are completely filled to shoulder height with luggage. But a friendly crowd - alcohol on bus forbidden, and no smoking. Toilet stops infrequent - try to avoid diarrhoeia and excessive liquids. Take water. Roadside snacks widely available but also good to take stuff like bread, biscuits, hard boiled eggs, tinned fish.

Note one of our party finished up on a different bus and different bus company - a bus with 'manchester one' written on it - various mechanical and other organisational problems he experienced.... Note you can also take Tanzam railway i think from Dar to Kapiri Mposhi about 100 km east/north-east of Lusaka. Cost unknown, duration unknown. Also there are buses (and trains ) Dar <-> Kigoma on Lake Tanganyika, near Burundi, which could have been a better but less travelled route for me from Kigali, since I took the long way around... Office is Harare is at RoadPort, near Hyundai Corner, Central Harare. Situation in Dar at Ubungo for Tawfiq is quite chaotic - requires some tolerance patience, understanding and a will not to be crooked... I am guessing incidentally that the trip Harare/Lusaka ->Dar es Salaam is much quicker and with less overcrowding, since most of the passangers are cross-border traders, and they are going in that direction with minimal luggage...

Lusaka/Harare ->Johannesburg/Capetown etc... - Translux, Greyhound and other bus services available - comfort level usually better than other legs on this kind of trip. Prices unknown but translux have website etc..

Visas - transit visa Uganda US$ 15 (you can get up to 7 days as transit visa), full/normal visa Uganda US$ 30, transit visa Kenya US$ 20, full/normal visa Kenya US$ 50, transit Tanzania US$ 25, transit Zambia US$ 65 (a rip-off!). All these prices for UK passport holders - most countries are visa-free for all east and southern africa passport holders. All visas were available at the border crossing points on request. Border crossing point visa for Rwanda seems to be free-of-charge, also visa-on-arrival at Kigali airport for UK passport holders. Never had a single request anywhere for health cards, immunizations, immunisations, vaccinations etc.. I dont take anti-malarial drugs since 1976 or so after 2-4 years continuous useage while working long-term in Tanzania, and have always been lucky; but I advise foreign travellers to check websites for advice on these kind of things and at least carry pills in case you show symptoms of contracting malaria. Take a can of insecticide spray also maybe and/or insect repellant - can get insecticide spray everywhere in 3rd world but repellant pretty rare and difficult to buy. I never had any trouble during this 5 day trip but some guys who slept in bus overnight while stationary were bitten mercilessly by mosquitos.

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There were 3 other non-african backpackers/tourists on whole trip - a British musician Kigali->Kampala, a Danish/South African missionary Nairobi->Dar, a Japanese tourist from Dar to Lusaka - none of these people complained and all seemed to be enjoying. I certainly enjoyed it as well.

There are (chargeable) shower facilities at Dar Ubungo bus station and at Lusaka bus station; at Nairobi, Kampala nothing I think; at Tanzania/Zambia border nothing I think some people found but I dont know where. Convenient hotels near bus station in Nairobi and Tanzania/Zambia border, but not really at Dar Ubungo bus station. Staying overnight there is OK as long as you are part of a party (or organise your own party) and you keep watch over each other's luggage while shift-sleeping.

Take US$ cash. Travellers cheques and credit cards largely useless (except in Nairobi where ATM cash machines take normal western cards and give decent exchange rate - for other pass-through locations I dont know the situation. Alternative strategy start say with Kenyan shillings and change everything at each border point as you pass through - the money changers (mostly illegal and unofficial) are very efficient and quite low-cost. But examine your money carefully to make sure it is neither fake nor plain paper, and best to know expected rates before departure and arrival - e.g. check on internet - http://www.oanda.com seem very good for all kinds of currencies..... Note that USD 1 bills are useful when in transit at airports and trying to get a coffee or something; USD 20-00 bills are useful for visas and transit visas (note that if a normal visa costs say USD 30-00 then a transit visa may cost USD 15-000; but to change into local currency best to have USD 100-00 bills, since you get a rate maybe 20 per cent lower than normal for 20s and may find it impossible to change 1s....

Advisable to ask permission before taking any photos at border points! I got reprimanded on Zambian side of Tanzania/Zambia border. Could have been serious....

There are rail possibilities Kampala to Nairobi (in 1973 it was a great trip! - 24 hours - but beware - I am now informed only 3rd class travel on this line is available - I was not able to check - and 3rd class is pretty basic - only try it if you are a group of 2 or more....), Arusha to Dar, Kigoma to Dar ( 48 hours) , Dar to Kapiri Mposhi near Lusaka. Rail is generally slower than bus. Take light wire so that your compartment latch can be secured from inside against the entry of thieves while occupants are sleeping overnight - string is useless since can be easily cut

Hitch-hiking is also possible throughout the region, but most people giving lifts will expect payment at least equivalent to the cost of the bus or rail trip - US$ 0.025 per km (USD 0-04 per mile) is a good average - you may get as low as USD 0.01 per kilometre. Always be careful at stops that the vehicle does not leave with your luggage but without you (that advice applies globally and not just in Africa).

Nairobi is the one security blackspot throughout the region - it is a haven for thieves. They prey on black Kenyans as well as on foreigners. Watch out! Most everywhere else is comparatively or very safe. But remember that tourists and foreigners always stand out...... Be careful without getting paranoid.

Kigali is quite OK, Kampala and Dar are fun with good nightlife (especially Kampala) and lots of visual stuff, Nairobi see above, Lusaka seems pretty much a dump, at least visually. Harare can also be OK again these days.

Email me if more questions or to add your personal experience...

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Boat and Bus from Kigali to Harare

Maps - checkout http://www.lib.utexas.edu/maps/africa and/or http://www.lib.utexas.edu/maps/africa/tanzania_tol_2003.jpg if you want to see where I was.....

I did a trip 2004/07 Kigali to Harare via Bujumbura, Kigoma, Mpulungu and Lusaka. Details as follows:

Bus Kigali to Bujumbura. Daily at 0700 from Nyabugogo/Nyamugogo bus station, downhill Rue Muhima from Kigali central roundabout. RWF 5000 (USD 9) by Yahoo bus - tel +250 0830 5334 or +250 0840 3039 mobile rwanda or 0991 641 Bujumbura, email ngaja1@yahoo.fr - , approximately 40 seater. Can alternatively travel by 16 seater Yahoo minibus, but 40 seater more comfortable and better if you have any appreciable luggage. Gets to Buj approx 1600 hours. Scenic route. Transit visa to Burundi USD 20-00; as usual you get this at the border....

Security - there were many soldiers and UN soldiers with guns throughout Burundi but I saw and experienced no problem. Dont take that however as a carte blanche - maybe check various government website advice before considering...

Bujumbura hotels- Le Doyen or Amitie (pronounced amitiey). Le Doyen was USD 20-00 per night single. Some Muzungu (white guy) told me that of course there were cheaper than that but not really good standard. When you get in Le Doyen is back in direction you arrived from, right next to Novotel, easy walking distance from bus-stop. Amitie is opposite direction, unknown distance. For food, Le Doyen was good and as cheap as you will get. There was a posh and unmarked cuban (?) restaurant opposite Havana club which was undoubtedly excellent, but I didnt try...

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Bujumbura to Kigoma Tanzania - 2 options - boat or bus.

Bujumbura to Kigoma Tanzania by boat. Departure is flexible, seems to be around Monday, so that can make connection Kigoma (Tanzania) to Mpulungu 1600 Wednesdays. Information at office of Batra-Lac - near Pizza restaurant and next to club Havana, up main street 300 metres opposite Novotel hotel on right hand side, first floor. Contact info tel 225461 and 2223125 office, 222865 fax, 0830237 mobile phone of Jean-Marie - should accept sms/text; they dont have or use email as of July 2004..... Country code is Burundi..... Fare I dont know. Returns from Kigoma Tz to Bujumbura depart Kigoma Monday mornings.... I am guessing this will be maybe a 12 hour trip or so....

Bujumbura to Kigoma Tanzania by minibus. USD 3-50. Buragane Agence - tel 932 000 or 946 244 Burundi. Leaves 1230 Buj arrives Mapanda (15 km short of Makamba the terminus) approx 1600 hrs same afternoon. Nice trip down coast road then up the winding mountain roads. Departure and tickets Buj near Burundi Finance Bank multistorey building approx 15 minutes walk with luggage from LeDoyen or Novotel hotel - from LeDoyen past Novotel to roundabout, across roundabout and take opposite road left fork. just at the Burundi Finance bank go left about 5 minutes - office is inside bakery at petrol station on left hand side. On the trip keep some money for snacks in a shirt or other accessible pocket, since you are crammed in pretty tight and difficult to access trouser pocket for money for fruit and snacks which are sold at the windows during stops....

At Mapanda there are 5-10 noisy and disorganised taxi drivers trying to get your business to ride to Mujina - the border town. I paid in the end USD 15 for the 15 km trip, but they had asked USD 20-00. The USD 15-00 included paying 2 guys with a bicycle to transport me to the border post Tanania side - approx 2 km or more on dirt road after a locked barrier. Dont try to do this yourself unless very fit and/or minimal luggage. And as you leave Mapanda you have to check out of Burundi - no charge for that - a small office near the outside of town - the taxi driver will know... The taxi driver seemed in the end very well pleased with the USD 15 (Burundian money 15,000) which I paid, so that was probably too much.

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Tanzania border post closes 1800 hours their time, which is 1700 hours Burundi time - watch out for that. Transit visa was USD 25-00. You can get minibus 1-2 km to nearest (only) town, which has no electricity and quite basic guest houses. USD 3-4 per night. Leave at 0330-0430 by minibus along 50 km dirt road to Kigoma. Arrive about 1000 hrs at Kigoma-Mwanga bus station. Can walk easily downhill towards Lake Tanganyika and harbour to bunch of guest houses which charge maybe USD 5-50 per night. I chose Mwanga lodge - tel 028 - 280 4183 or 028 280 3050 - which seemed quite good, also Zanzibar lodge quite good. I ate mainly at Mwanga hotel nearby for breakfast, and Ally's restaurant on left side downhill in Kigoma town about 10 minutes walk was quite decent for food. New Stanley Bar just further on left was the place where the in-crown hang out... Call-Baby cybercafe and Forex Bureau further again towards port on right hand side. In tanzania Kigoma cybercafe rates were USD 2-00 per hour, compared with USD 0-70 which is pretty standard throughout the region (i.e. Kigali and Bujumbura). Kigoma is a small provincial town - quite unlike Bujumbura, which seems like it could be a fun town.... I had to hang out there 4 days because I got my schedules wrong. But it was OK. You can do the Jane Goodall gorilla and chimps forest reserve thing which is very close to Kigoma, but I didnt.

Getting out of Kigoma - 4 options:

Bujumbura by boat - leaves monday morning - ticket from the port itself - way over to the left from the station. Cost unknown, but probably about USD 15-00 to USD 20-00 first class.

Bujumbura by bus - the reverse of the trip I describe above - daily transport available as far as I know, but you may find information at Mapanda quite non-existent - minibus comes through every day I guess about 1000 hrs or later - who knows - from Makamba. Makamba is a major center so if you get stuck get to Makamba and check - although that is 15 km in the wrong direction...

Dar es Salaam by train - about 1600 hours every Sunday and otherwise 2 more times per week - schedule unknown. About a 48 hours trip through Tabora and Dodoma. Recommend first class but second class may also be OK. Approx USD 45-00 first class single trip.

Mpulungu Zambia by Boat - the M.V. Liemba (formerly the Graf von Goetzen). Leaves every Wednesday 1600 hours, arrives Mpulungu Zambia Friday 0800 Tanzania time, 0700 Zambia time. First class ticket was USD 55-00 (must be paid exactly and in USD by any/all foreigners/Westerners).. Departs on return trip Mpulungu Friday 1400 hours arrives sunday mornings Kigoma Tanzania. I dont recommend any less than 1st class - or you dont get good sleep and/or you have no security for possessions and luggage. Food on board is OK, there is music and videos, otherwise ride not really choppy. Lots of noise with the diesels and for days afterwards I personally had background noise in the ears (like partial deafness), so maybe next time i take ear-protectors - but then i would look pretty stupid.... Plenty of stops, even aty nighttime, and offloading and onloading is from small boats which come out to the Liemba from the shore. USD 0-50 to get off or on. Some few major stops like Mpulungu have proper harbour-style off and onloading.... Quite entertaining for me at least watching the off and onloading processes - e.g. babies and mothers being dangled from ship to small boat... We saw at one place a small sea-snake (poisonous) looking for something to bite... Saw no crocodiles but guess they are there. The villages along our route really seem to depend on Liemba for supplies and for income... There is zero mobile phone coverage after leaving Kigoma.... And about zero shortwave radio coverage. But of course satellite radio (worldspace) works real fine..... If you want to you can get off at Kalanga (?) which is inside Tanzania and shortly before Mpulungu, and then make you way to Dar es Salaam via Tunduma or Mbeya by bus.... The first class cabins had life belt for each occupant, but I dont think there would have been for every person on board - who knows - they told me there were but I dont think so.... Boat went well and seemed reliable. There were family rooms near the back of the boat which a party of 6 Danish used - they didnt complain - like a small appartment - the charge was same as first class I think. You can also get super extra high class accommodation for about USD 200-00 but I was told by the danes that they didnt think it was worth it. Taking a vehicle on the Liemba is about USD 700-00 including off and onloading - pretty pricey. I met some south africans in Kigoma Tanzania who I think had come overland from Tunduma in 4x4 Land Cruisers or equivalent. But apparently during rainy season (November through April) that is pretty difficult... Back to Top

Mpulungu to Lusaka by Bus

You get in 0700 hrs on friday but there is no connection until 0200 hrs Saturday - Juldan motors bus - tel 247683 Lusaka, PO Box 35183 Lusaka - USD 16-00 to Lusaka - get there 1400 hrs same day. Comfortable and modern. Get ticket from small stall on left side near gas station and close to market. Check into one of the several guesthouses which are maybe 10 minutes walk from the port. Transit visa USD 60-00 (yes - 60!) for UK passport holders, I dont know for other foreigners...Guesthouse USD 3-00 for the stay. Eat at Hope Kitchen which you pass on the way from the port - meals USD 2-00... No cybercafe, internet access, and no mobile phone coverage... but there are phone shops for making voice calls.

Lusaka to Harare by Bus

Tawfiq of Dar es Salaam and also I think Translux of South Africa do this route with smart luxury buses, but this time because of schedules I took Chigubu Brothers - tel +263 4 611 433 or +263 4 611 3434 Harare - bus which was very basic and ordinary and quite draughty and cold. Zupco of Zimbabwe also do that route - and not so luxury as Tawfiq or Translux. Get these non-luxury buses still inside the Lusaka bus station but away from the main stands and near the toilets, showers and small eating places... USD 10-00 leave 1530 hrs got in 0200 next morning, because of leaking radiator and stops every 1 hour to refill that... Trip during the night in July was darned cold - wrap up well - I didnt!! But June July is winter in Southern hemisphere so outside that period should be OK. Mobile phone coverage from maybe 3 hours east of Lusaka until Zambia/Zimbabwe border, then nothing until you get to Chinoyi.

Summary - took me 10 days because of 4 day lay-over in Kigoma, otherwise 6 days; this is vs. 5 days for bus route Kigal-Kampala-Nairobi-Dar es Salaam-Tunduma-Lusaka-Harare (described above/below). Much less mileage than the overland circuitous route. I think the section Buj to Kigoma I would have preferred by boat than the bus trip I did, but scenery was great. Think I would have like to spend more time Bujumbura - seems maybe a fun city; but not as cheap as say Kigoma Tz. Total cost about USD 120-00 transport, USD 105-00 visas (Zambia the killer, probably only for UK passport holders), hotels USD 30-40 (with Bujumbura the expensive location). Might consider taking ear-muffs and also ear-plugs to counter residial effects of the M.V.Liemba background noise. Overall quite fun, generally extremely difficult to get any kind of information, even and especially when right on top of it in the town which you are trying to leave - no-one seems to know anything, especially the travel agencies (and note that Kigoma has no travel agent!). Dont know if I would do these kind of trips if I wasnt trying to get from A to B and avoid ridiculously overpriced airfares, but I find it also a lot of fun despite some hardships.... And you get to meet people if you want to do that....

Maps - checkout http://www.lib.utexas.edu/maps/africa and/or http://www.lib.utexas.edu/maps/africa/tanzania_tol_2003.jpg if you want to see where I was.....

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South Africa

Executive Breakaway Tours - Zimbabwe, South Africa, Southern Africa. http://www.ebtours.co.za tel +27 11 888 7741 or mobile/sms +27 83 700 4316 - edgecomb@yebo.co.za - Robb Edgecomb - current 2004/08

Guest House South Africa - Mpumalanga - Panda Matenga Guest House + 2 self-catering units - +27 13 235 2422 Dorothy Smit, 49 Jansen Street,Lydenburg. Only 2 hours drive from Kruger National Park. Paraplegic-friendly environment

Holiday Cottage Capetown South Africa - Constantia Valley near to winelands,sea and forest. Comfortable garden cottage, fully equiped, sleeps 2-3, private garden, carport, security, +27 713 0370 or mornedup@iafrica.com

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Mozambique

Mozambique - Rio Savana Beach Holiday - 34 km north of Beira - tel +263 4 495 470
Mozambique - caravans for hire - Biques resort - +263 4 753 534 Lauretta

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Zimbabwe

List of Travel Agents, tours, country accommodation and budget city accommodation taken from Zimbabwe Herald newspaper classified advertisements December 1999 through January 2004

STOP PRESS 2004/04 - note that this month the national telecomms utility has started an online directory enquiry service, at http://www.telone.co.zw/directory.html - Zim Directory Enquiries. And from this I have processed a Zimbabwe Yellow Pages - find that at http://www24.brinkster.com/alexweir/ZimDir - it has a bunch of hotels, safari, hunting, travel agents, and overall general tourism listings....

Note that any phone number below starting with +263 23, +263 91, or +263 11 is a mobile, and can therefore usually receive and send text/sms messages; and if you give an email address on your initial sms/text then most operators will be able to reply by email .........

A lot of tourist offerings in Zimbabwe are distinctly upmarket and possibly overpriced. For example average hotel prices are typically US$ 50 / night double for residents and more for foreign visitors. And it is very difficult when you are not in a country to locate the more budget offerings. So here are some alternatives (but note that some of the below are also middle-market or upper-market!). For a good official listing of what is on offer for the tourist checkout http://www.africaonline.co.zw/ then choose travel button then hotel button. also http://www.mweb.co.zw and http://www.zol.co.zw

Incidentally, not a lot of people realise that it is possible for your business to have an advertising or informative presence on the web without the business having to have a computer, email address and access or full internet web access

Good luck - Zimbabwe is a nice place to be a tourist, and as of 2004/04 the political and security situations are becoming greatly normalised......

Anyone who wants to be included please email me on alexweir1949@yahoo.com

Zimbabwe Hotels Countrywide - Zimbabwe Sun Group
Zimbabwe Hotels Countrywide - Cresta Group
Zimbabwe Hotels Countrywide - Rainbow Tourism Group

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Lodge - Bulawayo - Lalani Lodge - +263 9 41 935
Bulawayo - Nira Holiday Flats - +263 9 799 61 / +263 9 799 62
Bulawayo Lodge - Ebenezer Lodge daily rates +263 9 62 231 or +263 91 364 733

Hotel - Beitbridge (Zimbabwe/ South Africa Border) - Holiday Inn - +263 86 3001-5 / +263 86 3371-2/ fax +263 86 3375 hiebeit@hiebeitzimsun.co.zw

Boarding House - Mutare - +263 20 67574

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Executive Breakaway Tours - Zimbabwe, South Africa, Southern Africa. http://www.ebtours.co.za tel +27 11 888 7741 or mobile/sms +27 83 700 4316 - edgecomb@yebo.co.za - Robb Edgecomb - current 2004/08

Travel Agent - Repon - current 2004/01 - +263 23 292 897 , +263 4 792 267, 268

Travel Agent - Swala - these guys will book for you with the National Parks Lodges etc - which are very good value and extremely scenic - really recommended - tel +263 4 722 260, fax +263 4 700 764
Travel Agent - Phineas Fogg Travel - +263 4 786 491 to 8 or +263 4 746 037 to 8 or root@fogg.icon.co.zw
Travel Agent - Mash Travel - +263 4 708 360/ +263 4 252 968 to 9
Travel Agent - +263 23 692 814/ +263 91 354 075/ +263 4 571 498-9
Travel Agent - Olifay Safaris - +263 4 749 223-8 or mtours@icon.co.zw
Travel Agent - Chalets, cottages, lodges from US$ 15/day Seafarer Travel tel/fax +263 4 481 345 or +263 91 342 061
Travel Agent - Majestic Travel & Tours - +263 4 303 391 / 335 381
Travel Agent - Breakaway Tours - +263 4 703 176 - 178
Travel Agent - Flamingo - +263 4 708990 / 707349 / 708991/ 708992/ 708993
Travel Agent - Rennies Travel - +263 4 705 614/ 792 627/ 746 300
Travel Agent - +263 23 692 814/ +263 91 354 075/ +263 4 571 498/ +263 4 571 499
Travel Agent - Fast Trek Travel - +263 01 351 706 / +263 91 320 546
Travel Agent - Houseboats, Cruisers, Southern Belle bookings on Lake Kariba - Rhino Rendezvous +263 4 745 644 - 648 rhino@mail.pci.co.zw http://www.cruiserkariba.co.zw/
Travel Agent - Adventure Travel Bulawayo - +263 9 66 525
Travel Agent - Dons Travel & Tours Bulawayo - +263 9 540 637/+263 9 540 877/ fax +263 9 540 906
Tour Operator - http://www.discoverzimbabwe.com

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Zimbabwe Hunters Association - +263 4 707 306 or +263 91 329 434

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Country Lodge - Caharara - Nzou Lodge - 3 bedrooms, pool, game viewing platform, with cook - +263 4 300 911
Country Lodge - Great Zimbabwe - Dzimbamabwe Lodge book thru Msuna Safaris - +263 4 704793/ 704792/ +263 91 210 603/ +263 91 308 589
Country Lodge Nyanga - Kamusha Kadiki - sleeps 6, timeshare, bed & breakfast and lodging - tel +263 298 459 fax +263 298 522 / +263 91 210 504/ +263 11 401 862
Nyanga self-catering cottages - Geoff Cox - +263 29 224 013 or +263 4 335 692
Country Lodge - Masvingo - Nyuni Mountain Lodge, Glenlivet Road, Masvingo - +263 39 64 491/ +263 4 720 664
Self Catering Houses Upper Vumba 10 minutes from Leopard Rock - tel +263 4 705 873 Mrs Robertson
Holiday Cottages self catering, short stay +263 11 714 333
Harare Safari Lodge, Lakeside, +263 4 690 202 joyboat@telconet.co.zw
Imire Game Park, Wedza, 120 km east of harare - +263 4 733 391 fax +263 4 731 856
Juliusdale thatched cottage sleeps 4, minimum 2 nights, tel +263 4 884 258

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Houseboat for Hire - +263 23 401 776/ +263 4 302 094/ +263 4 308 010
Houseboat for Hire - Happy Houseboats at Safaris Inc - +263 4 251 889/ 728 255/ 728 256
Houseboat for Hire - +263 23 401 776/ +263 4 302 094/ +263 4 308 010
Houseboat for Hire - +263 61 2971 / 2972
Houseboat for Hire - +263 4 690 202 joyboat@telconet.co.zw

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Minibus for Hire - +263 4 499 920 or +263 11 800 083

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Car Hire - Autorama - +263 4 335 714/ 336 297/ fax 335 714
Car Hire - Avis - +263 4 575 431 to 3/ 575 144/ fax 575 481/ +263 9 685 71/ +263 13 4532
Car Hire - Deep Horizons - +263 4 703 232/ 703 237/ fax 703 239
Car Hire - Elite - +263 4 738 325 to 7/ fax 720 414/ 575 411/ +263 9 226 642/ +263 13 5842 victora falls
Car Hire - Europcar - +263 4 752 559/ 750 622 europcar@mail.pci.co.zw
Car Hire - Hertz - +263 4 727 209 / 706 254/ 706 038/ 575 206/ fax 792 793 hertzzim@zwe.toolnet.org
Car Hire - Impexo - +263 4 702 720/ 705 763/ 705 783/ 705 795/ fax 705 780
Car Hire - Lisma - +263 4 727 339/ 708 345/ +263 11 202 954
Car Hire - Mako - +263 4 757 333 to 5/ 759 292 to 9/ fax 774 473
Car Hire - Minibus for hire - +263 11 800 083 / +263 4 499 920
Car Hire - Premier - +263 727 563/ 722 198 to 9/ fax 727 563
Car Hire - Skys - +263 4 724 124/ 707 361/ 702 186/ fax 738 460
Car Hire - Target - +263 4 746 371/ fax 746 717/ +263 11 602 804
Car Hire - Transit - +263 4 706 919/ fax 734 121
Car Hire - Thrifty - +263 4 746 108, 746 853, fax +263 4 746 123, mobile +263 11 207 605, bell@africaonline.co.zw info updated 2004.04.12, Bells Car Hire, Newlands Shops (near Cabs Building Society), Highlands, Harare
Car Hire - Truck & Car - +263 4 721 295/ 721 388/ fax 732 895

Caravan & Trailer Rentals - +263 4 308 592

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Note - the places listed in this lined section are still current 2004/01 - the others may still be in business or maybe not........

Juliusdale - Nyamazi Falls Lodge - self catering cottages each sleeps 6 people, tel +263 4 701 428 - 429, +263 4 706 678, bookings@nyamazi.co.zw

Masvingo (great zimbabwe ruins) - flame lily inn +263 23 832 492, 9 simon Mzorodze road, Masvingo

Kadoma Hotel/Lodge - Westview Lodges - US$ 2-6 - +263 68 24284 or +263 11 406 236

Harare Hotel/Lodge - Elephant Lodge - neat budget accomodation - 122 B H.Chitepo /Harare Street +263 4 794 965/966 or +263 23 823 096
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Pagomo Hillview Lodge - 27 Bishop Gaul Ave +263 4 773 503 or +263 23 750 467
Harare Hotel/Lodge - PG Lodge - self-contained rooms, US$ 8 - 9 /day +263 4 741 161 or +263 11 736 239 or +263 4 778 367
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Rhino Lodge excellent accomodation 70 Selous Ave Harare City centre +263 4 793 309 or +263 23 832 492
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Sahwira Executive Guest House - bed + breakfast - +263 4 778 580 or +263 91 268 138
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Profile Inn - execute accom + conference - 27 Ceres Road, Prospect, WaterFalls +263 4 576 104
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Merrion Lodges near Kamfinsa - +263 91 354 095, +263 91 410 800
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Mushandira Pamwe hotel, Bed + breakfast, +263 4 621 522, +263 4 621 523, +263 23 405 544
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Pandhari Lodge +263 4 494 918 - 921, fax +263 4 494 916

Harare - Mbizi Game Park and Lodge - +263 4 572 886, +263 4 700 676/7/8 (bookings), fax +263 4 700 812 (bookings), mbizizim@mweb.co.zw - mbizi@zol.co.zw - http://www.mbizi.co.zw - up-market more expensive accommodation, but quite affordable for day trips.

Harare - Backpackers and Overlanders Lodge - opposite Mbizi Game Park as above, near Airport, tel +263 4 575 715 and +263 4 575 719. conxshon@samara.co.zw USD 20-00 per lodge per day - typically up to 4-6 people per lodge. 180 acres of balancing rocks and bushland terrain in peaceful river valley. Perfect for Fishing, Birdwatching and Bushwalks.

Harare Hotel/Lodge - flame lily Profile Inn, 27 ceres road, hatfield, harare, +263 4 574 104

Harare Hotel/Lodge - overnight accom, conferencing - +263 91 328 621, +263 4 573 564
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Note - the places listed in this lined section were current 2003/01 - they may still be in business or maybe not........

Harare Hotel/Lodge - Small World Backpackers Lodge - 72 King George Rd Avondale - +263 4 335 176, fax +263 4 335 341
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Malindi Bed + Breakfast - +263 4 495 701 malindi@africaonline.co.zw
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Luxurious Lodge - US$ 90/day bed & breakfast, Pandhari Lodge tel +263 4 494 918/ 921
Harare Hotel/Lodge - B+B Lodge - 10 Soden Ave, Hillside tel +263 11 738 521
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Broadlands Lodge - US$ 1-2 - tel +263 4 304 995 or +263 23 751 998
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Exclusive neat guest lodge - +263 666 535
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Globe Trotter Lodgings - Bring own music. Food on request. 3.5 km Old Mazoe Rd, +263 91 348 117
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Horizon Inn - Fife Ave/2nd St - +263 4 253 851-5, fax +263 4 794 051
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Palm Lodge - +263 4 708 419, 708439, 708478, 253920
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Quiet secured bedding only - US$ 2 - +263 4 747 403 or 747 016
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Shumba Lodge - exclusive luxury accomodation - 157 Fife Avenue/6^th Street City Centre Harare +263 4 793 309
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Red Fox Hotel - affordable accomodation, comfortable and clean, secure parking +263 4 495 466 / 481 098
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Khaliphinde Guest Lodge - bed & breakfast, spacious rooms, quiet environment, Hillside near City Centre, single US$ 16, double US$ 22/day +263 4 747 853 / +263 91 319 484
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Holiday / transit house - Glen Lorne , secluded, fully equiped US$ 40/day +263 4 499 645
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Livingstone Inn - bed, private bath, breakfast, CTV, car park, from US$ 6/day +263 4 738 593
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Earlside Hotel Budget Accomodation - easy walking to city centre tel/fax +263 4 721 101
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Russell Hotel - newly renovated suites available - ctv, pool, parking, reasonable rates, close to city centre tel +263 4 791 895/896/897
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Aqua Lodge - 50 Edmonds Ave, opposite Exhibition Park tel +263 4 775 449
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Malta Guest House - bed + breakfast with self catering option. 3km from city centre along airport road, secure environment, daily and monthly rates from US$ 20/day. +263 4 883 370 / +263 11 200 299
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Shingai Lodge - 731 Glen Helen Way, Glen Lorne, Harare, spacious rooms decorated to mirror Zimbabwe culture, meals provided, transport organised, US$ 20 single, US$ 13 per person per night sharing +263 91 408 700 or +263 4 499 295 / +263 11 200 424
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Avonlea Guest Cottage - US$ 15/day +263 4 333 249
Harare Hotel/Lodge - City Packers at City Limits - 2^nd street/Baines Avenue near city centre, bed, private bath US$ 11/day
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Daily/weekly accomodation - US$ 8/day +263 4 571 388
Harare Hotel/Lodge - overnight self-catering accomodation in Avenues near city centre US$ 9/day, US$ 15 sharing +263 4 776 745
Harare Hotel/Lodge - neat rooms - US$ 6 - US$ 9 /day +263 4 222 807/ 698 698/ 225 427
Harare Hotel/Lodge - Quiet Bedding - daily US$ 6 tel +263 4 747 403/ 747 016
Harare Appartments +263 11 207 650

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